Grif (P401) is a historic ship attraction in Tallinn, a city that packs a complete medieval walled town with a start-up scene bolted on. The Old Town itself has 2 km of standing wall, twenty surviving towers, a functioning 1404 town hall, and a street plan that has not been rationalised. But the wider city is much bigger than its postcard: Kalamaja, ten minutes north of the walls, is full of wooden apartment houses, coffee roasters and small restaurants; Telliskivi Creative City occupies old railway workshops; Noblessner, a former submarine yard on the sea, has a taproom and a swimming spot; and Kadriorg, east along the tram line, holds Peter the Great's baroque palace and the national art museum. Visitors come for the layered history, the design and bar scene, and the seaside walks. The cobbles between Pikk and Lai are empty and echoing at 8am, but by 1pm in July, when three cruise ships are in, Viru gate is a slow-moving queue.